Took a detour down to the town of Gjirocaster which it turns out is Albania's answer to Dubrovnik - quaint old town rammed with tourist tat. Above the old town is a

remarkable medieval/Ottoman fortress which was in use as a prison into the 60s. It's vast, and largely intact with huge vaulted Chambers and underground tunnels. There's also an impressive collection of 2nd world War artillery, including a rare and tiny fiat tank. And the views over the valley as the sun goes down are breathtaking!