1000m ascents are an everyday thing by now, although today's was rough. Pretty hot, and lots of gravel and pushing. Back down again, and a little restaurant in a little village fed me a late lunch of vine leaves and peppers stuffed with rice and mince, with mash and cabbage salad. Maybe the best meal I've had yet!

More uphill into the early evening, but now it's cooler and the roads are better. Had a roadside rinse at a water point, and I've found a lovely spot in some woods to camp.

I think I'm about as off the beaten path as you can get in Europe. On most roads I've been on, especially east Albania and Montenegro, plenty of foreign motorbikes and camper vans have passed me, as well as a few bikepackers. On these roads I only encounter the occasional beaten up mark 1 Golf or Yugo.