A sunny start heading across a beautiful plateau covered with meadows, juniper and small farmsteads, but as I go into the valley dark clouds appear on the hills. Heading through dense pine forest, heavy thunder booms across the mountains and rain sets in. Climbing up, I think I've just dodged the worst, but the storm hits me full with full force just as i come across a small sawmill. There's no sign of sawing, but I can hear voices, and ducking inside I find four sawyers having a coffee/beer break. They give me raki and I chat with them as best I can until the storm passes and they go to work and I hit the road.
A lucky late lunch again - I find a restaurant serving mutton stewed in gravy and chips. Its getting late in the day, and though the storm has passed it's still raining intermittently. I push on for another few miles uphill, then make camp under a flyover. Not the most romantic spot, but it's discreet, and crucially, dry.