A victory lap
Rain cleared last night, so I had a nice walk round town on my last evening. Couldn't rehome the bicycle, so rode out to the airport this morning and with a heavy heart left it to its fate. Probably end up being scrapped, but there you go. That's it, journey's end. Getting on the plane shortly and b...
Two days in Krakow
Last night in Krakow tonight. Pretty glad to be off, it's been a slow couple if days raining all the time and the hostel is a bit depressing. However, I grabbed the early sunshine yesterday, and managed to find a pub crawl last night which was a good send off. City hostels can be very odd places. Yo...
End of the ride
That's it, the end of the ride! Happy to say that the last day was lovely. Poland is pretty big on cycling and I got from Tarnow to Krakow almost entirely on cycle routes. Went though some lovely forests and passed the bison reserve (didn't see any of course), and got into town well before the thund...
Tarnow and last camp
Hit the 3000km landmark today which I didn't think I would do on this trip. Anyway, weather and bike seem to be holding up for these last couple of days. Weather's been lovely in fact. Pushing on west to the final deduction now, but I took a pit stop in Tarnow which seems like an interesting town....
A small fox and some wooden churches
A hilly but beautiful ride into Poland through the Magurski National Park. Apparently there are wolves here but I didn't see any, only a small fox. Tonight I'm in Krosno, a town which I would call pleasantly unremarkable and which seems really quiet for a Saturday night. Maybe it gets busy later. I'...
Near the Polish border
An interesting encounter this morning- I met a guy who had just managed to leave Ukraine, and is flying to Belfast tomorrow to meet his wife and kids. He showed me a video of his flat in Mariupol getting bombed way back in 2015, and he had several scars from shrapnel. He was such a nice bloke, a big...
Fruit cage appeal
Now that I'm sadly nearing the end of this adventure, I'm making my appeal for Exeter Community Garden. In the last couple of years we've been developing our berry patch and it's been coming on nicely with rasps, blackcurrants, loganberries and a worcesterberry plant which I took down from Scotland...
A new country... maybe
Got to Slovakia today - not sure if I've been here before but if I have it was very briefly. I'm staying in Kosice, first night in a bed for a while so that's nice. Just as well too as I hit a storm on the way here. It's a beautiful little city with lots of great architecture. The old town is based...
Heading for the hills
Finally left the great plain and heading up into the hills, although they're very small hills so far. The landscapes get more interesting, as do the villages for some reason. First stop visited a museum which was nice, but nothing in English. Stuff about postcards and chocolate, after that I'm not s...
Hortobagy national park
Still hot today, but a bit fresher than yesterday. Found a great network of cycle routes going through Hortobagy national park, past a bird reserve. Didn't see a white tailed eagle, but I did see a red deer and an egret. Still being attacked by mosquitoes, but tomorrow I'm heading north our of the g...
Back out East
The hottest week ever, but we're still going! Actually it's not that hot here but still 5 or 6 degrees above average, combined with a late night last night made for a pretty tough morning. Cooled down this afternoon though, and I made some good distance. Back in the woods, the mosquitoes are inferna...
Buda and pest
I'm in Budapest, a city that needs no introduction. More precisely, I was in Buda yesterday and Pest today. Due to the idiosyncrasies of booking.com, I ended up paying for 3 nights to stay for 1 night in a hostel with all the charm of a prison yard. Still, I escaped so that's the main thing. I guess...
Longest ride of the trip!
Longest ride of the trip today, but definitely not the hardest with lovely weather and good roads all the way. Hopping between towns, at the first stop it was market day. Got some Hungarian steet food for breakfast, a kind of fritter/pancake with sour cream and garlic paste. Second town promised an...
Longest ride of the trip
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Longest ride of the trip today, but definitely not the hardest with lovely weather and good roads all the way. Hopping between towns, at the first stop it was market day. Got some Hungarian steet food for breakfast, a kind of fritter/pancake with sour cream and garlic paste. Second town promised an...
Back in the EU
First day in Hungary. Over the border everything feels strangely neat and organised, and having got a bit of a handle on Balkan languages I now have to deal with Hungarian, which sounds completely outlandish. As a friend put it - if you hear someone talking and it doesn't sound like anything you've...
Last stop in the Balkans
Another hot journey to Subotica, just a few kilometres from the Hungarian border, but some high cloud kept the worst of the sun off, and I had a dip in a lake along the way. I was only planning one night here, but the city is a real little gem with some fantastic architecture, so here I am enjoying...
Changing cities
I'm in Novi Sad today, the second biggest city in Serbia. Quite a long ride, but flat so doesn't feel so long, although at 35 degrees in the shade it's definitely hot. Novi Sad is a city that feels affluent and well organised, and had a lot of fine architecture, including a Catholic church, in a sty...
Two nights in Belgrade
Yesterday's thunderstorms cleared out the weather and today is clear and fresh, and only 30km into Belgrade. Belgrade is the biggest city I've visited on this trip, and I was expecting a horrible ride, but found a nice backroad with plenty of local cyclists coming the other way. The back road led on...
Penniless in Bosnia
Set off west through the Durmitor Park, over the highlands before heading down towards the Piva lake. Turned north, following the lake/gorge road through dozens of tunnel, then crossed the dam and followed the gorge. Fantastic views from the bridge over the gorge, then on to the Bonsian border cross...
Deluge!
A good start to the day with fine weather, heading east over rolling countryside - you can almost imagine it's England in some kind of parallel universe. Making good progress, I was hoping to get to Belgrade today when I was hit in the face by some of the heaviest rain I've ever seen. Managed to hid...
First day in Serbia
Good hotel breakfast then headed east. Weather was hot and heavy, but the haze kept the worst of the heat off. Crossed the Drina into Serbia, which is hundreds of meters wide here and swollen. The sultry weather and verdant landscape makes me feel like I'm crossing the Amazon. Serbia looks rough and...
Back to the lowlands
Today I made it to Tuzla, Bonsia's fourth largest city. It's a pretty big town, not a huge place. There's a big pedestrian area in the centre which has dozens of shisha bars and very little beer which tells me I've hit the Muslim areas (the number of whole sheep I saw being spit roasted on the way i...
A storm in a sawmill
A sunny start heading across a beautiful plateau covered with meadows, juniper and small farmsteads, but as I go into the valley dark clouds appear on the hills. Heading through dense pine forest, heavy thunder booms across the mountains and rain sets in. Climbing up, I think I've just dodged the wo...
Bikepackers' corner - how far?
I'm often asked how far I cycle in a day, and It's a question I don't really like to get into. For one thing it's not that meaningful- 100km on even roads is far easier than 50 on dirt tracks over hills. I also try to steer away from the inclination to make everything quantitative and competitive -...
Onwards and upwards
1000m ascents are an everyday thing by now, although today's was rough. Pretty hot, and lots of gravel and pushing. Back down again, and a little restaurant in a little village fed me a late lunch of vine leaves and peppers stuffed with rice and mince, with mash and cabbage salad. Maybe the best mea...
A very wet hike
Rain forecast so I decided to spend another day in Zabliak. Six of us decided to brave the weather, and set off hiking to a viewpoint over the Tara canyon, reckoned to be the second deepest in the world. Started off pretty good, but the rain was coming in, and by the time we reached the viewpoint th...
A short walk
A day off from cycling. Six of us attempted to climb up Bobotov Kuk, which was considered Montenegro's highest peak until they found some more on the Albanian border. Anyway, it's still the main peak in Dormitor national park. Easy start up by the Black Lake, then hitting some slidey gravel trail fu...
Macedonia is stunning
One of the toughest rides of the trip, but definitely the most spectacular with sunny but cool weather. Heading west the vegetation becomes more varied as I go up through meadows full of wildflowers and forests. After a long a rocky ascent I come out onto the barren plateau with limestone rocks and...
Hit by a storm
Was hoping to camp out tonight, but I met a massive rainstorm coming the other way. Luckily I'd just got to a ski resort town called Kolasin, so no worries, but it means a tough day tomorrow if I'm going to get to Zabljak tomorrow.
Hotel update
Got into my room at last, and it's a very nice room. Seems the hotel is a work in progress, so they're sort of building it and renting rooms at the same time which is probably why it's so cheap.
Relaxing in Andrijevica
After a chilly night (still at 1000m altitude) I didn't feel like cycling up another mountain today, so I'm taking it easy. After some hair raising tunnels i stopped in Berane, a town surprisingly devoid of tourists, to check out the market and museum. Borrowed some WiFi and took a chance on one of...
Into Montenegro
A very long ascent up to the border crossing at around 1800m, but good weather and good roads so not so bad. Beech forests turn into pine, with beautiful views and fresh air, before heading back into the valleys. Ended up camping somewhere near Rozaje, a pretty good spot although excerpt for a coupl...
To the Accursed Mountains!
Steady ride up to Peje with a stop off in Giacove where some locals invited me for coffee. Kind of missed a bullet as there were bad flash floods here yesterday - apparently two people were killed. Not so bad today, but still lots of mud and flotsam on the streets. Big day tomorrow as I head into th...
Back to the old town
A long but smooth thousand metre ascent to the mountain resort town of Prevalle which, at 1500m altitude, is a ski centre in winter, and in summer months provides respite from the heat. A a rough descent on roads that haven't been built yet, with thunder showers, into Prizten, one of Kosovo's few to...
First 1000km
A tough morning working up towards Kosovan, at one point pushing the bike up a dirt track in the midday sun, then further up to the high border crossing. Saw a hideous creature which may have been sone kind of camel spider. Afternoon was a pleasure, winding down into the valley region along steep s...
Last stop in Macedonia
Sometimes cycling into a big city gives you a bad first impression - the road into Skopje was narrow, smoky and crowded. It is, however, a splendid capital. Much of the old town was destroyed by an earthquake in... (although the Ottoman bridge survived), and has since be rebuilt in grand style, full...
Downhill all the way!
Had an easy ride with more downhill than up for once. Detoured through Kavadarci, Macedonia's wine capital and wound up in the dusty road town of Grasko. Only point of interest is the train station which seems mostly defunct, but a passenger service still runs and from my guesthouse I see old soviet...
First stop in Macedonia
First town in Macedonia, a nice little city between the mountains based around a lively pedestrian market area. Enjoying the food - had a late breakfast of rice, pork and beans which was well needed after a day on road rations. Tonight a resident German recommended an eatery with good ooshtipec - I'...
New day new country!
The rain has cleared, so I made it into Macedonia today! So far so good, after a solid hill thr border crossing was easy, they just stamped my passport and gave me a biscuit. First night under canvas. I'm not quite wild camping, I found a little resort on the shore of Lake Prespa who let me pitch on...
Still in Albania 🙃
In the end I didn't get to Macedonia today. Climate change is against me and we're having unheard of non stop rain. But no stress, I had a good day and visited some interesting sites, and the hostel friends had a good night out. Normal weather should resume tomorrow. I'm off to camp out next to lake...
Rain day in Korce
It's a rainy day, so I'm having a day off from cycling in Korce, my last stop in Albania. It a lovely little city in the mountains, home to Albania's main cathedral, with a bustling bazaar and miles of cobbled streets. I've found the sweetest little hostel an I'm enjoying some good company. This is...
Bikepacker's corner - to book or not to book
In pre-internet days it was simple - you turned up somewhere and looked around for somewhere to stay. Booking ahead was impossible, and even after it became possible tended to cost more. In Peru my system was to ask directions for the Placa de Armas, the name of every central square in Peru, and loo...
Another hard day in the saddle
Long ride today, following the Vjose valley close to the Greek border, then heading north. Some stunning views of the mountains (they don't come out on the photos, but there you go), with roads getting rougher as they climb. Was planning to stay at Leskovic, a village beneath a dramatic crag, but de...
A very wet afternoon
Stopped today in a very pleasant town called Permet, then rode to the hot springs 15km away. Proper mountain weather now - baking when I set off then turning into thunderstorms. I was soaked by the time I got there, spent a couple of hours in the water, then got even more soaked on the return! Last...
A scenic detour
Took a detour down to the town of Gjirocaster which it turns out is Albania's answer to Dubrovnik - quaint old town rammed with tourist tat. Above the old town is a remarkable medieval/Ottoman fortress which was in use as a prison into the 60s. It's vast, and largely intact with huge vaulted Chamber...
Hard roads and tortoises
A truly epic biking day today! 10 tough hours over the mountains, dirt roads and quad track, but no disasters. Saw some magnificent views, several tortoises and picked plenty of cherries. I met a Dutch couple who had got their rental car stuck on the quad tracks, but they messaged me to say that the...
Berat
Spending a couple of nights in Berat, a pretty tourist town. The main thing is Berat Castle, a sprawling fortresses complete with several churches and mosques and a tourist village.
Albanian riviera
Had a wonderful afternoon in Divjake, a sleepy town on the Albanian riviera (which us a thing). Stunning nature reserve on a huge lagoon, plenty of birdlife and trails to explore. Finished the day with locally caught sea bass.
First journey
First real riding day, an easy 50km. Got to town lunchtime so plenty of time to explore. Durres is Albamnia's second city, a nice coastal town with a roman amphitheatre and other bits and pieces. So far Albania is the sort of laid back place where no-one bothers you as a tourist, and people spend a...
Up a mountain
Tried out my bike and my legs today cycling up mount Dajti. About 1000m ascent, then another 500 to the top. Everything worked fine, so I'm heading to Durres on the coast tomorrow, an easy 50km downhill.
Got a bike!
Got myself a lovely little bike for a great price. Super happy!
First day in Albania
I'm in Tirana today, it's very nice, laid back and Mediterranean feeling with lots of street cafes. Kind of run down with lots of squat concrete buildings, as well as quite a few architecturally quirky high rises cropping up.
Here we go!
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I guess the journey starts here. Made it through airport security no problems. I'm flying Heathrow to Tirana today, going BA to avoid Luton and paying £50 for carry on. Will be interested to see how they compare to Wizz air. All going well should get into Tirana about 6pm local time.